Sunday, July 15, 2018

People I met in Ukraine, Moldova, and Romania


True to form, I either write too much or nothing at all. I’ve realized that my personal emotions are getting too personal to share. So what else to write and share? I once suggested that a man who worked in a hostel write about the people he met. People are one of the main reasons I travel. And let me tell you, on this trip I have met some interesting characters. I of course will not be writing about those I actually spent time with or plan to stay in contact with in the future. Just the random strangers I meet, have a brief encounter with, whether it be good or bad, who cause you to think about life in a different way.

Dude from Cali: So I’m standing in the line to get a shwarma at 1:00 am on a Tuesday night/ Wednesday morning. The guy in front of me is struggling to explain that he wants meat and cheese. So I step in with my Russian: “Mojna sir I kuritza pazh-al-oosta.” The guy asks where I’m from, because it’s clear I’m not local with my day pack out at 1am. We start a conversation while we wait for our shwarma. And it turns out he left for a 2 week long back packing trip to Thailand 5 years ago and just hasn’t gone home. These people fascinate me, and I’m so jealous of their extreme love for the journey and courage to face the constant unknown. He, also marvels at my life. In the end he buys my shwarma to say thank you for the help and is on his way.

Couchsurfing Dudes: I’m not sure if you all know about couchsurfing, but it is an amazing app that brings together travelers and locals to learn about culture and exchange travel tips. I like it for when I’m feeling lonely, need a night out, and just haven’t met anyone worthy of a whole beer worth of my time. I’ve had only good experiences with it, though sometimes you can tell a guy is after something else. Which is why I prefer large group meet ups.
I did not know what I was getting myself into when I decided to organize a couchsurfing group of 6 to meet in the middle of a busy square and find somewhere to watch the world cup match. What I got: A student from Libya who graduated 6 months ago, but can’t seem to face the idea of going home, a super nice Hungarian currently living in Germany, an extreme partier from Amsterdam who has been out every night at the hottest clubs in the city, a Japanese man who is super interested in obtaining drugs and prostitutes. The rest are no shows. When the conversation turned to how easy it was to pick up different girls in different countries I started to get uncomfortable. Then it went to the cost of prostitutes. I tried to steer the conversation, and the dude from Germany tried to help, but no luck. I knew it was time to make myself disappear.

The guy who really hated America: I was already sick of talking about American politics, and then this guy appeared at the hostel. We started off just fine, talking about Romanian wine and beer.  Since he was from Slovakia, I told him I had greatly enjoyed my time in his country and that I found the Tatra mountains incredible.
“Oh really! But do you know what America did to former Yugoslavia in the 90’s?”
I assume he is talking about the Nato Bombings. “Yes, actually I taught Yugoslavian history. And I’ve visited all the countries in former Yugoslavia and learned the history of each.”
“Really? So what did you do to stop America from ruining us?”
“Um…..I wasn’t even 10 years old.”
“So nothing then.”
“Okay. I need to use the restroom.”
“Which restaurant did you say had the craft beer?”
Yes indeed. A strange one.


A Ukrainian bus driver: I decided to go find the Darth Vader Lenin statue. After some thorough research I found the location and needed to hop the number 8 bus. I got to the location, managed to flag the bus down and hopped on. However then the bus driver asked me where I was going. I tried to say the name of the stop, but he laughed at my horrible pronunciation, was shocked I was going that far out of the city, and told me to have a seat. We then exchanged a conversation in broken Russian/ English in which he asked if I was Christian, my age, where I was from etc. He kept looking in the rearview mirror and smiling at me. Then he asked if he could be my boyfriend. After kindly declining he stopped the bus and urged me to get out. I was pretty sure he was going to rape me, as I had been the only person on the bus and we were now in the middle of nowhere. However he kindly said, “No pay,” escorted me to the #3 trolley and directed me to get off in “one, two, three stop.”


The dude from Michigan: I walked into the hostel at about 11:00am after a night bus and a short 3 hour nap. This guy immediately greeted me, so I assumed he was in charge in some way. I noticed a bottle of vodka and a bottle of orange juice, both half gone. He wasn’t in charge, however he did escort me to the correct place to check-in, and then came to have a nice little chat about where I was coming from and what I was doing. He was shocked to find out I was from Wisconsin and living abroad. When I asked how long he had been in Moldova I assumed he would answer with a number of days. However he responded that he was sort of stuck here, and I asked why and he said Visa issues. He then proceeded to tell me that the reason he left the states was really that he couldn’t manage to find any girls that interested him there and that he wanted to fall in love. He explained that all the girls seem to be of a certain political stand-point and that this caused him to become interested in politics. Also, he was sick and could not afford medication in the states. At this point my friend arrived to go to lunch, so I told him goodbye. Later that evening when I returned, the bottle of vodka was gone, and another was started. The next morning I awoke to him chugging back water and prescription pills, while rubbing his head.

Tuesday, June 12, 2018

Untitled #4

7/4/18
This life is totally normal, and yet everything has changed.

9/4/18
It was one of those lay on the couch with a glass of wine and listen to music sort of evenings. I was laying there wondering why I was wasting my time. I could have been out on an evening walk, practicing russian, reading my book, or playing my guitar. But this was what I needed. Not for any reason. Life isn't particularly stressful right now. But maybe it's okay to sit back in my happiness and just soak it up for a little while. I should do this more often.
14/4/18
One of my biggest life goals is to live in the present, but I'm finding that really hard to do when I get to see you in 2 months.

18/4/18
Getting truly comfortable with being alone is a very important step in life. Sometimes I wonder how I will ever go back. I love finding moments of solitude to be with, and love myself.


21/4/18
I don't know if it's just because I had 2 weeks of real companionship, if I'm anticipating the busyness of summer, or I'm feeling sedentary, but recently I've felt incredibly lonely.

24/4/18
I cannot wear this fear on my face.  This is not what I agreed to, and I will not be this girl again. The scars of 8 years ago cannot keep resurfacing. Then suddenly you come and make it alright without even knowing it was wrong. I tell you anyway, because I'm not around to play games. This is why I love us. It's never been like this before.


30/4/18
Sometimes I'm running at brilliant speed downhill, feeling the blood pumping in my heart. Then I turn around, and slow my pace as I start the slow ascent home, and I see the most magnificent view in front of my eyes. I have to wonder how I ended up here of all places. "Feet on the ground, head in the sky." This is home.

5/5/18
More and more every day. For all of my days. 
7/5/18
Nope. Eyes forward, on the prize. No distractions, no confusion. 

11/5/18
Trying really hard to live in the present, but with summer just around the corner, and a pile of upcoming events, I'm finding it difficult. I'm starting to really miss the simple, accepted stillness of Montenegro. Tonight I arrived home, at about 9:45pm on a Friday, and really wished I could walk to the beach to listen to the waves for an hour, or sit on my porch and play my guitar while watching the mandarin trees grows. In Montenegro I became confident in my simplicity of life, and my loneliness. The goal for next year is to find that confidence here.

26/5/18
Every once in awhile I still get totally overwhelmed with this feeling of joy. I know where it comes from it is makes me so juxtaposed: comforted and nervous as hell. Trusting things beyond mistake. 

4/6/18

Well, that was a strange little feeling I never expected to have. Amazing how little reminders bring up faded memories and emotions. 

11/6/18
The "maybe" scared me, but once we started saying only yes, I wasn't scared anymore. 

Wednesday, April 4, 2018

Georgia and Armenia

Full Disclosure: I didn't write as much as I normally do on this trip, because when I travel with people I lose most of my usual alone time in restaurants and on buses. And, I was lucky and got to travel with a very special someone.

So before I get started on the journaling let me tell you a little about the trip from a cultural perspective:

Georgia: So much wine! Georgians were the first to make wine and they make it in a strange, but all natural way, which makes it incredibly delicious. There were so many times where we meant to get a bottle of wine and cork it for the next day, but ended up drinking the whole thing. We did several wine tours and as it turns out we liked Stalin's 2 favorite wines the most of them all. Whoops!
traditionally made Georgian wine
The food is heavy and filling, and if you are not careful you can way overeat. Luckily sharing dishes came in very useful. Lots of grilled meat and veggies stuffed or blended with nuts, as well as dumplings  stuffed with meat or mushrooms, known as khinkali . They are famous for their dish called khachapuri  which is fresh baked bread in the shape of a boat filled with very strong cheese and a raw egg. They also make something called churckhela, which is basically a string of nuts dipped repeatedly in the the leftover grape mixture from making wine. Super good for hiking and non alcoholic. 
khachapuri
The people in Georgia are so hospitable, especially if you get outside of the main cities. We were in so many cute guest houses and met many amazing people. On my last night there a random stranger offered me a ride to the airport because I took the wrong bus. 
Our designated driver for the day in Kakheti
Georgia has a very interesting culture and history. For us the most interesting bit was in Gori, the city Joseph Stalin was born in. They still glorify him here. There is a museum about him, and  in front, there once stood a large statue of him. However they were forced to take it down and replace it with a smaller version, as it was deemed a monument to communism. We were told that they placed it in an airfield not far from Gori and went in search of and found it, thanks to the owner of our guesthouse, and many random strangers we met along the way. 

Georgia is also known for it's gorgeous landscapes. Unfortunately, we went in the spring, which meant the trails were either insanely muddy, or coated in extremely heavy snow.  We did manage to see a lot of beautiful monasteries. 

RELAX! It was an April fools joke.
Armenia: Food wise they are very similar to Georgia, except they make a special kind of very thin bread called lavash. They also claim to have made the first wine and specialize in pomegranate wine. They also have a very famous brandy called Ararat. We took a tour while we were there, which was very interesting.

Historically Armenia has a very sad history, which involves a lot of death, and loss of land. Originally Mount Ararat (apparently where Noah landed after the flood) was part of their country, but it was annexed to Turkey in a deal to keep a port city within Georgia during the former times of the Soviet Union. The mountain is still a national symbol and can be easily seen from the city.  There are still many disputed territories. 
Armenian Flag
Mount Ararat
Overall we preferred Georgia to Armenia. The people were much kinder (obvious why) and the roads were nicer. I preferred Tblisi to Yerevan, but Lewis really liked Yerevan. 

And now on to the feelings:

March 16th 2018
I feel ridiculously calm considering everything that may or may not happen. Either way, this is going to be a life changing trip. 

March 17th 2018
It feels strange to know so much about you and yet know so little. Part of me feels like we are doing this backwards. 

March 18th 2018
If we keep talking about our future this way, I may start to believe that it will actually happen.


March 19th 2018
We are  6 days in and it is incredible to me how equally relieving and frighting that is. 
---------------------------------------
It's strange because usually whenever I arrive at a destination the first thing I do is check for messages from you and send you a "heeeeeey" but now you are with me when I reach my destination. And I really like that. 

March 20th, 2018
I am in way over my head. But for 2 years I have thought that I was meant to be with you. You push me to be the absolute best version of me. You make me laugh in the best possible way, you challenge me to be the best version of myself, but accept me for who I am. I don't think I will ever find anyone like you, but I'm also not sure I deserve someone as good as you. The last 7 days have confirmed what I have already known. I am meant to spend my life with you. 

March 21st 2018
I don't know if it is because we are driving an Armenian car in Georgia, constantly singing out loud, or that we just look different, but people will not stop staring at us. 

March 24th 2018
Sometimes I get mad at how easy people make traveling look. So here is post to show you what it can really be like: Today was shit. We found a cool statue after searching  for an hour in random fields (highlight of the day.) We had a really weird boarder crossing  experience where we got separated, and then continued to drive on a major highway filled with potholes in a new country unable to find a place to exchange money or eat. We were looking forward to  finally arriving at our "lake house" with 3 nice beds, a kitchen, and a washing machine, after a 6 hour drive.  Only, after an hour of searching in the bustling wind, we eventually stopped for a beer at a brewery and managed to contact the owner, who booked us into a shitty hotel next to some abandoned buildings. So, the day has ended in an hour of sink laundry, ordering food/ alcoholic beverages in my very best Russian at the only restaurant we could find in the pouring rain, and joking about how likely we are to get mugged or killed. But the thing is, when you are doing these "shitty" things with one of your best friends they don't seem so shitty anymore.

March 26th 2018
Today as we were finally with some other people I started to wonder what they thought about us. I can't keep my hands off of you, and I wonder if they were judging us for that. But if they knew our story....knew us, maybe it'd be different. Also, I have 2 years to make up for, so I don't really care. 

March 29th 2018
My hand misses your hand. My lips miss your lips. My ears miss your voice. My head misses your shoulder.  I do not understand how we did this for 2.5 years without going crazy. And I don't know why we are agreeing to continue the torture.

March 30th 2018

So I'm stuck waiting for this stupid delayed flight, ready to be home (mostly because I'm used to being at home alone) and there is this super cute family. The dad is American and the mom is British and the kids talk with the cutest accent. We are working together to translate all the Russian announcements about our flight, and I feel myself attaching to them and wanting to learn from them because they are perfect. They work so well with one another. One goes to get coffee as the other contacts possible hotels, one takes a kids to the toilet while the other takes a kid to information desk to ask questions. One grabs the bags while the other gets in line. I has made me miss traveling with you, but mostly it has made me think about how amazing our future will be.